Philadelphia: Don’t waste space on cheesesteaks

Deceivingly simple looking rabbit stew at Kanella in Philadelphia. When someone tells you he’s taking you to a Greek-Cypriot restaurant in Philadelphia, you expect rustic, hearty Mediterranean food—some grilled fish, melitzanosalata, baklava—right? Well Kanella is a Greek-Cypriot restaurant and that’s not what was served. OK, yes, those things are on the menu, but executed at another level from the Greek joint you normally go to. And after reading this Philadelphia Inquirer review, anyone would expect more. Continue reading “Philadelphia: Don’t waste space on cheesesteaks”

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Dough boy

Alejandro Briceno and his wood-burning oven

This tweet from @kiawe_fire says it all: “Dough is not right today ,,, so I’m not serving pizza!!! Sorry ill b back 2morrow.” That’s the twalias of Alejandro Briceño, former Nobu Waikiki pastry chef turned pizzaiolo. Instead of deconstructing shave ice and performing chocolate alchemy for one of the world’s most prestigious celeb-chef chains (Briceño’s Nobu desserts were stellar), he’s now baking pies—the Neapolitan kind. And that kind is all about the dough, which he happens to make from Caputo flour—”la farina di Napoli”—imported from Italy, and known internationally as the flour to use to make pizza.

Continue reading “Dough boy”