A Town Called Delicious: Farewell to a trailblazer

The mid-2000s were a milestone time in Honolulu’s restaurant history. In June 2004, Kevin Hanney opened 12th Ave Grill in Kaimuki. The banquettes upholstered in black-and-gold bamboo fabric, kim chee-marinated steak and addictive smoked ahi spread, and long oak bar with a classic cake stand on one end were like nothing the city had seen before. I had moved back to Honolulu from Manhattan a … Continue reading A Town Called Delicious: Farewell to a trailblazer

Hawai‘i gets three candidates in James Beard Awards semifinals

The Restaurant and Chef Award Semifinalists for the 2013 James Beard Foundation Awards are out—and Hawai‘i has three guys on the list! *Drumroll please* The semifinalists are: Rising Star Chef: Quinten Frye, Salt Bar & Kitchen (pictured above) Best Chef: West: Ed Kenney, Town Outstanding Wine, Spirits, or Beer Professional: Chuck Furuya, DK Restaurants Congratulations to all three men—they have worked hard for the honor. … Continue reading Hawai‘i gets three candidates in James Beard Awards semifinals

Town: So pig-headed!

Pig head at the Town barFrom day one, Town‘s Ed Kenney and David Caldiero have been talking of locavorism, house-curing meats, house-made pasta, and other seductive culinary promises. From the first lunch they prepared for me in spring 2005 (before they served their first customer!) to dinner last night, this pono pair has delivered. And not just to so-called foodies, but to the community, as unflagging participants in fundraisers, as the commercial partner of MA‘O Farms and as an affordable spot for the people (check $12 Souper Tuesdays—organic greens and washtub-size bowl of house-made soup).

Four years on every time I go to the restaurant there’s something new and intriguing to try on the daily-changing, local-farmer-supporting menu. Last night it was pig head. Continue reading “Town: So pig-headed!”